The material of a hat decides everything: how it feels in your hand, how long it lasts, which seasons it works in, how much sun protection it offers, and whether it holds shape in a packed suitcase. Straw, felt, wool, and raffia are the four primary hat materials in 2026, each with distinct properties and a clear season of dominance.
This guide explains what each material is, when to choose it, and which Eric Javits designer hats represent the category at its strongest.
For the full lineup of warm-weather designer picks, browse the designer straw hat collection. For cold-weather felt and wool styles, see the fall winter collection.Â
Which Hat Material Is Right for You?
For warm-weather wear and travel, choose patented SquisheeÂŽstraw, breathable, packable, and UV-protective.Â
For autumn and winter, choose felt (warmth and sculptural shape) or wool (versatility and insulation).
Raffia is dominant in summer bag construction but rarely used for hats, the engineered SquisheeÂŽ material delivers the raffia aesthetic with significantly better durability.
The four materials cover the full year-round wardrobe.
Comparison Table: 4 Primary Hat Materials
| Material | Best Season | Packable? | UPF Rated? | Durability | Care Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Natural Straw | Summer | No | Sometimes | Medium (5â8 yrs) | Moderate |
| SquisheeÂŽ (engineered straw) | Spring/Summer/Year-round | Yes (springs back) | UPF 50+ verified | Very High (10+ yrs) | Low |
| Felt (Wool Felt) | Autumn/Winter, transitional spring | Partial (water-repellent quality varies) | No | Very High (decades) | Higher |
| Wool | Autumn/Winter/cool Spring | Partial | No | High | Moderate |
| Natural Raffia | Summer (mostly bags) | Limited (creases) | Sometimes | Medium | Higher |
SquisheeÂŽ: Eric Javits' Patented Engineered Straw
SquisheeÂŽ is Eric Javits' patented man-made material incorporating recycled fibers.
Engineered specifically to look and feel like natural raffia straw but with three structural advantages: won't crack, splinter, or melt when wet. Independently tested at UPF 50+, blocking 95â98% of UVA/UVB rays.
Lightweight, packable, and shape-retaining across years of use.
For the patent and material backstory, see our what is Squishee material guide.
SquisheeÂŽ Properties
- UV protection: UPF 50+ certified by independent testing
- Water resistance: Beads surface moisture, dries quickly, no warping
- Packability: Folds flat, springs back to original shape
- Recycled content: Incorporates recycled synthetic fibers
- Lifespan: 10+ years with basic care
- Best season: Spring, summer, and year-round travel
Top SquisheeÂŽ Hat Picks
Eric Javits' top-selling fedora.
Available in 9 colorways. Packable, shape-retaining, UPF 50+ rated. The most versatile SquisheeÂŽ pick, works for resort, garden party, city travel, everyday sun protection.Â
Price: $385.
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Eric Javits' personal favorite design.
Perfect craftsmanship with no frills, simple chic SquisheeÂŽ silhouette with elasticized inner band. Blocks 98% of UVA/UVB rays.
Price: $206.50 sale - $295 regular.
SquisheeÂŽ banded with cotton grosgrain ribbon and signature logo rivet. Compact 2.75" brim, packable, UPF 50+. The dressiest of the SquisheeÂŽ picks.Â
Price: $227.50 sale - $325 regular.
Felt: Sculptural Year-Round Construction
Felt is made by matting and compressing fibers, most commonly wool, sometimes rabbit fur, under heat, moisture, and pressure.
The matted fiber structure produces a dense, pliable material that holds sculptural shapes beautifully and provides excellent warmth without bulk.
Felt Properties
- Warmth: Excellent insulation for autumn/winter wear
- Sculptural form: Holds blocked shapes (fedora crown, brim angles) over years
- Water resistance: Water-repellent in quality felt; should not be soaked
- Lifespan: Decades with proper care
- Best season: Autumn, winter, transitional spring
Top Felt Hat Pick
Hand-blocked water-repellent wool felt fedora with sumptuous pig suede band and rakishly angled brim. Crown fully lined, elasticized inner band fits most. Packable and rollable despite the structural felt construction. 4-inch brim.
Price: $475.
Best for cold weather, rainy days, travel, everyday sun protection in cooler months.
The L'Avenue exemplifies why felt remains dominant for cold-weather hats: the water-repellent treatment protects against light rain, the structural integrity holds the fedora silhouette for decades, and the hand-blocking process produces a fit that doesn't loosen over time.
Wool: Versatility and Natural Insulation
Wool is the most versatile hat material, it spans tightly knit beanies, woven tweeds, brushed cloches, and structured fedoras.
Wool fiber has natural crimp that traps air for insulation and naturally regulates moisture and temperature.
Wool Properties
- Insulation: Excellent, air-trapping fiber structure holds warmth
- Breathability: Regulates temperature naturally (warm in cold, cool in mild conditions)
- Antimicrobial: Naturally resists odor
- Durability: Resilient fiber that springs back from compression
- Best season: Autumn, winter, cool spring
Top Wool Hat Pick
Fashionable women's cloche hand-blocked of the finest superfelt.
Banded and edged with contrast grosgrain ribbon. Cross tab at back of crown sets off the signature gold-tone logo. VelcroÂŽ tab feature underneath the sweatband adjusts head size for the perfect fit.
Packable and rollable, fully lined.Â
Price: $395.
Best for cold weather, rainy days, travel.
The Lilly demonstrates wool's range, the cloche silhouette pulls low for warmth, the superfelt construction holds shape, and the adjustable fit accommodates head-size variation without altering the silhouette.
Natural Raffia: Bag Construction
Natural raffia is derived from the leaves of the Raphia palm (genus Raphia), primarily harvested in Madagascar.
According to the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, the Raphia genus contains approximately 20 species, most native to tropical Africa, with fiber harvested without killing the tree, a fresh leaf set regrows annually.
Why Raffia Is Used Mostly for Bags
Three reasons:
- Structural requirements differ: Hat crowns require hand-blocking, pressing the material over a wooden form. Natural raffia is more variable in fiber width than engineered SquisheeÂŽ, making consistent crown shaping more labor-intensive
- UV testing: Independent UPF 50+ certification is more reliable on engineered materials like SquisheeÂŽ than on hand-woven natural raffia, which varies in weave density
- Durability: Natural raffia is more delicate than SquisheeÂŽ for hat construction that faces repeated sun exposure, packing, and reshaping
The category where natural raffia genuinely excels is bag construction, tightly woven raffia handbags retain shape across years of use.
For the broader material comparison in the bag category, see our squishee vs raffia bags guide.
Where to Find Eric Javits Raffia Pieces
Raffia is integral to Eric Javits's bag lineup; the Croissant, Portofino, Verona, Mini Myka, and other pieces use natural raffia with leather trim.
For hats specifically, the SquisheeÂŽ range delivers the same raffia aesthetic with significantly better durability and UPF certification.
Material Standards That Actually Matter
The "hat material" category includes everything from premium hand-blocked felt to mass-produced synthetic straw.
Two standards separate the meaningful from the marketing:
Material Classification
ASTM International publishes standards for leather, fiber, and textile classification, the baseline that quality-focused brands measure against.Â
Hand-blocked construction, full-grain leather trim, and verified material composition are documented through ASTM-aligned testing.
UV Protection Testing
UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) ratings on hat materials are verified through AATCC and ASTM testing protocols.
SquisheeÂŽ is independently tested at UPF 50+, the maximum rating, blocking 98% of UVA/UVB rays. Most natural straw, felt, and wool hats do not undergo UPF certification, which is why SquisheeÂŽ hats are the default recommendation for sun protection.
How to Choose by Season and Use Case
Spring - Summer - Year-Round Travel
SquisheeÂŽ is the dominant choice. Daphne Fedora for the bestseller silhouette, SquisheeÂŽ A List for the simple chic option, SquisheeÂŽ Classic Fedora for cotton-trim refinement.
Autumn - Winter - Cold Weather
Felt for sculptural fedora silhouettes (L'Avenue Wool Felt) or wool for cloche and adjustable styles (Lilly).
Transitional Spring - Cool Travel Days
Either felt or wool, both handle moderate temperatures without overheating. SquisheeÂŽ works for milder transitional days but is engineered primarily for warmer conditions.
Rainy or Variable-Weather Days
Water-repellent felt (the L'Avenue is specifically treated) handles light rain better than untreated wool. SquisheeÂŽ is water-repellent for spring/summer rain.
Avoid natural straw and untreated felt in heavy rain.
Beach - Resort - Outdoor Sun Exposure
SquisheeÂŽ with UPF 50+ certification. The Daphne and SquisheeÂŽ A List are the most consistent picks.
For style-specific picks across silhouettes, see the best sun hats for women guide.
Care for Each Material
SquisheeÂŽ Care
- Spot-clean with damp cloth and mild soap (never immersion)
- Air-dry flat after spills
- Store stuffed with tissue paper
- No special conditioning required
- Reshape after packing, springs back naturally
Felt Care
- Dry-brush regularly to remove dust
- Spot-clean with damp cloth and mild soap
- Steam to reshape dents (gentle, brief exposure)
- Professional cleaning for stains
- Store in a hat box to maintain crown shape
Wool Care
- Hand-wash in cold water with wool-safe detergent
- Lay flat to dry (no hanging, distorts shape)
- Avoid direct sunlight during drying
- Store folded, not hung
- Brush gently to refresh between wears
Natural Raffia Care (for raffia bags)
- Spot-clean carefully, never immerse
- Air-dry slowly in well-ventilated area
- Avoid prolonged sun (raffia fades)
- Condition leather trim every 3â6 months
- Store stuffed to maintain shape
Summary: Hat Materials Explained
Hat material is the first decision before silhouette, color, or trim. SquisheeÂŽ dominates warm-weather and year-round travel with packability and UPF 50+ certification.
Felt and wool own autumn-winter with insulation and sculptural form. Natural raffia is the right choice for bag construction but rarely the right choice for hat construction.
For the 2026 hat wardrobe, the Eric Javits range covers the full year: the Daphne, SquisheeÂŽ A List, and SquisheeÂŽ Classic Fedora for spring through fall; the L'Avenue Wool Felt and Lilly Wool Hat for cold months.
Together they handle every season without compromise.
FAQs: Hat Materials Ecplainded
What is the best hat material for sun protection?
Patented SquisheeÂŽ or other UPF 50+ certified materials. SquisheeÂŽ is independently tested to block 98% of UVA/UVB rays, the highest rating recognized by dermatology and sun-protection authorities.
Many natural straw hats are loosely woven and offer minimal UV protection despite their summer aesthetic.
Is felt or wool warmer for winter hats?
Both perform similarly for insulation. Felt offers more sculptural shape retention (better for fedora silhouettes). Wool offers more natural temperature regulation and a wider style range (cloches, beanies, brushed styles).
The L'Avenue (felt) and Lilly (wool) cover both categories.
Can I wear a SquisheeÂŽ hat in the rain?
Yes, SquisheeÂŽ is water-repellent. The surface beads moisture and dries quickly without warping, cracking, or splintering. For sustained heavy rain, a water-repellent felt hat like the L'Avenue Wool Felt is better suited.
Why does Eric Javits use SquisheeÂŽ instead of natural raffia for hats?
SquisheeÂŽ delivers the raffia aesthetic with significantly better durability, water resistance, UPF 50+ certification, and shape retention. The patented engineering means a SquisheeÂŽ hat lasts 10+ years where natural raffia lasts 5â8 years with active care.
For raffia construction at its best, Eric Javits's range is concentrated in bag construction.
How long should a designer hat last?
A well-cared-for designer hat in SquisheeÂŽ, hand-blocked felt, or quality wool should last 10+ years (decades for premium felt). Per-wear cost across that lifespan is consistently lower than replacing fast-fashion hats seasonally.
Are felt hats waterproof?
Quality felt hats are water-repellent, they handle light rain and brief moisture exposure. They are not fully waterproof. The L'Avenue Wool Felt is specifically treated for water repellence.
Avoid soaking any felt hat.
What's the difference between SquisheeÂŽ and natural straw?
SquisheeÂŽ is Eric Javits' patented engineered material incorporating recycled fibers, uniform fiber width, certified UPF 50+, packable, water-repellent, 10+ year lifespan.
Natural straw (wheat, toquilla, sisal, seagrass) is plant-based and biodegradable but varies in weave density, requires careful handling, and is not consistently UPF-rated.
Can wool hats handle warm weather?
Wool naturally regulates temperature, so lightweight wool styles work in cool spring conditions. For genuinely warm weather (summer or tropical destinations), wool is too insulating.
Choose SquisheeÂŽ or natural straw for warm-weather wear.
Should I have a hat for every season?
For year-round coverage: one SquisheeÂŽ for spring/summer (e.g., Daphne Fedora), one wool felt for autumn/winter (e.g., L'Avenue Wool Felt or Lilly Wool Hat), and one packable SquisheeÂŽ for travel year-round (e.g., SquisheeÂŽ A List).
Three hats cover most lifestyle needs.
How do I clean a hand-blocked felt hat?
Dry-brush regularly to remove dust. Spot-clean stains with a damp cloth and mild soap. For deeper cleaning or stubborn stains, use a hat-specific professional cleaning service. Reshape dents over gentle steam exposure.
Never immerse felt in water.
